Missing Bolgatanga
Writing about Bolgatanga (Bolga) is like talking about the street on which I live. Even in the dark, and in my mind’s eye, I can map out the footpaths, the streets, the joints plus the pito bars.
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Mention of Zaare, Soe, Tanzui, Atubalbisi, Daportidongo, and my own dear Bukere is a trip down memory lane.
Bolgatanga
Bolga is so familiar that I had on numerous occasions deferred writing about it. But is it really fair to jettison a destination just because it is very well known?
So here, I go. And if you sense that in my narration, I am here and there all over the place, please bear with me. It is the fondness fever that comes with homesickness. By way of formal introduction, our destination today is the Regional capital of the Upper East Region. I am saying this with pain because a good number of grown-up Ghanaians still do not know this. They mix up the capitals of the two Upper Regions. Here, let me take the pain to also say that the capital of the Upper West is Wa.
Located 815km from Accra, Bolgatanga is one of the fastest-growing towns in Ghana. If you ask me, what makes this town tick is the warmth and openness of the people. It is the kind of place that doesn’t remind you that you do not belong. So one finds several citizens from all over Ghana and in the sub-region settling here. The result is that Bolga has a great ratio of non-native investment.
In terms of tourism, what makes this town important is that, it is surrounded by a satellite of tourist destinations. Trips to Sandema, Sirigu, Navrongo, Paga, Tongo and Bawku are better handled with Bolga as the base. Thus, although Bolga is not your top-tourist attraction town, it is positioned as a hub that services the tourism industry.
Being the capital, it has the best hotels, the best internet facilities and the best food joints in the region. A first-class asphalt road that leads to and out of the region has also made Bolgatanga convenient to travel to. Indeed, observers believe that this 1997 road actually opened up the town to the rest of the world.
On account of its location, Bolga also functions as the first city for Burkinabes and those travelling through that country by road to Ghana. Actually some citizens of this neighbouring country come down for business as well as pleasure.
In the year 2000 when the late Muamar Gaddafii started out on a road journey across the Sahara through Ghana, I was an eye witness to the Bolgatanga stretch of the spectacle. Scores and scores of well-stocked and fortified four-wheel drives went through the Bolga highway like a movie-stunt caravan. When the fleet stopped to refuel, that alone was an eye-catching display as dollars were flying here and there.
And then a little later in 2002, I also saw the then Secretary-General of the UN Kofi Annan cruising the streets of Bolga on his way to visit Sirigu. Again, another convoy of well-guarded United Nations vehicles was a colourful change.
A landmark event in this town’s history is the National Festival of Arts and Culture (NAFAC) held here in 1998. That cultural fiesta brought from all parts of Ghana, people who came to see the north for the first time and in a very positive light.
Talking about seminal events, in 1986 the then Chairman Rawlings launched URA FM, the first broadcast station outside of GBC, that was also a highpoint for this region.
However, one could also say that Bolgatanga has seen some very good days. A close look at the infrastructure in suburbs such as Zuarungu would confirm this. The then flagship Catering Rest House, is also a testimony. When you interview folks here, they still have fond memories of a certain Kofi Charley, (Mr Charles Ampofo) who was a Regional Administrator. This was during the early 1970s when Colonel George Minyila was Regional Commissioner.
According to eyewitnesses, at the time there was a deliberate effort to make Bolgatanga ‘’hip.’’ You had to travel there to be counted as an outgoing Ghanaian. Do not forget that those were the days of the Tomato Canning Factory at Pwalugu, Meat Processing Factory at Zuarungu and Rice Mill right in Bolgatanga town. Need I add that during this era, the local traditional brew, pito was bottled and ‘’exported’’ down south?
The entertainment scene was also ‘’psychedelic’’ to use another trendy term of the times. (Later in the decade, AB Crentsil’s band came up here to perform to a delighted audience only to be faced with an interesting dilemma- to play or not to play the somewhat derogatory hit song ‘’Atia’’).
A popular band known as the Uppers was – to use Shatta Wale’s term “hot cake.’’ While touring country-wide, the band also attracted visitors to the North. One of the show stealers was a pretty lady called Christine Azuma. According to my favourite ‘’Old Timer’’ source, Kwasi Gyan-Appenteng, Christie could sing like an angel!
One of the things that distresses me is when we people chorus about the problems of northern Ghana as if it is God forsaken. It is not. If we plan and put the appropriate services and facilities in place, their true beauty and character would come out.